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🎧 This article is adapted from the Beauty Beat Pod – a podcast by Covalo.

In the full episode, Nikolai Krivolutski shares his perspective on scalp health, evolving consumer expectations, and the growing overlap between skincare and hair care. Listen on Spotify

What is the "skinification" of hair care?

As Nikolai explained, hairstylists have understood the importance of scalp health for years. Now, the wider beauty industry is catching up.

Skinification refers to the growing overlap between skincare and hair care. Instead of treating the scalp as an afterthought, brands and formulators are beginning to approach it with the same level of care as facial skin. That means:

  • Targeted treatments
  • Hydration-focused formulations
  • Microbiome-conscious products
  • Ingredients traditionally associated with skincare

Today's scalp care products increasingly feature ingredients such as:

  • Niacinamide
  • Hyaluronic acid
  • Ceramides
  • Salicylic acid
  • Peptides

The result is a more holistic approach to hair care – one that recognizes the scalp as the foundation for healthy hair.

Why scalp health matters

Hair may be the visible focus, but biologically speaking, healthy hair starts beneath the surface.

"The hair we see is technically dead," Nikolai explained on the podcast. "The living part is the follicle."

An unhealthy scalp environment can contribute to:

  • Excess oil and buildup
  • Irritation and dandruff
  • Sensitivity and inflammation
  • Weaker hair quality
  • Disrupted hair growth cycles

This is one reason scalp care has become such a significant focus for formulators. Consumers are also becoming more educated and ingredient-aware, driving demand for products that go beyond cosmetic performance alone.

The challenge of formulating scalp care products

Scalp-focused products come with their own formulation challenges.

Unlike many skincare products, scalp treatments need to work effectively without leaving behind heavy residue or negatively affecting the appearance and feel of the hair itself. Balancing efficacy, sensorial performance, and compatibility across different hair types can be complex.

According to Nikolai, one of the key considerations is ensuring products remain lightweight while still delivering hydration and nourishment where needed. 

This has led to growing interest in multifunctional ingredients that support both scalp and hair health simultaneously.

Ingredients bridging skincare and hair care

Several familiar skincare ingredients are now finding a place in hair and scalp formulations.

  • Niacinamide: Known for supporting the skin barrier and balancing oil production, niacinamide is increasingly used in scalp care products targeting sensitivity and excess sebum.
  • Hyaluronic AcidTraditionally associated with hydration in skincare, hyaluronic acid can help support moisture retention in scalp treatments without adding excessive heaviness.
  • Ceramides: Ceramides are gaining traction in hair care formulations designed to support barrier function and improve hair feel and resilience.
  • Salicylic AcidOften used in exfoliating products, salicylic acid can help reduce buildup and support a healthier scalp environment when used appropriately.

 

Scalp care is becoming more targeted

Just as skincare evolved from basic cleansing and moisturizing into targeted routines, scalp care is following a similar trajectory.

Consumers are increasingly looking for solutions tailored to concerns such as:

  • Scalp sensitivity
  • Dryness
  • Excess oil
  • Flakes and buildup
  • Hair thinning

This shift is also influencing product formats. Beyond traditional shampoos and conditioners, the category now includes:

  • Scalp serums
  • Exfoliating treatments
  • Leave-on scalp products
  • Microbiome-focused formulations

For formulators and brands, this opens up opportunities to create more specialized and science-led products.

Looking ahead

The skinification of hair care reflects a broader industry shift towards more informed, science-conscious beauty routines. 

Consumers are asking more questions about efficacy, scalp health, and ingredient functionality – and brands are responding with increasingly sophisticated formulations. 

As Nikolai highlighted during our conversation, healthy hair starts with the scalp. Treating it with the same care and attention as facial skin is quickly becoming a new standard rather than a niche approach. 

If you're developing hair or scalp care products, ingredient selection plays an important role in balancing efficacy, sensorial experience, and formulation performance. On Covalo, you can explore hair and scalp care ingredients using filters for performance claims, including scalp care, conditioning, hydration, and more.