Natural Skincare for Oily Skin: How to Formulate with Cactus Flower

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• The Hidden Link Between Sun Exposure and Oily Skin 
• Meet Isorhamnetin: the Underestimated Flavonol with Major Potential
• Puryflower™ by Bionap: A Multitarget Active for Lightweight Formulations
  • A Sustainable Source with Regenerative Potential 
  • Multi-Mechanism Power Backed by Biology
  • In Vitro and In Vivo Studies: The Data Behind the Claims
  • Why Puryflower™ Excels in Suncare and Modern Formulations 
• A New Path for Oily Skin Resilience in Sun-Intense Seasons

The Hidden Link Between Sun Exposure and Oily Skin 

Oily skin doesn’t just shine more in summer, it becomes physiologically different. Under UV exposure, sebaceous activity intensifies, oxidation accelerates, and inflammatory responses heighten. It all results in a skin environment that becomes more unpredictable, more reactive, and more difficult to regulate during the hottest months.

With the summer sun and higher UV rays, sebocyte activity is stimulated, leading to higher sebum flow while triggering lipid peroxidation. Heat and humidity then amplify the problem: pores become enlarged, inflammation rises, and oxidized oils create congestion and rougher texture.

For consumers, this shows up as the classic summer struggle – persistent shine, clogged pores, and skin that feels more reactive with every hour outdoors. As temperatures climb globally, so does the demand for formulas that do more than mattify. Brands are now expected to deliver lightweight, breathable solutions that regulate sebum while reinforcing the skin against UV-induced stress.

Meet Isorhamnetin: the Underestimated Flavonol with Major Potential

In the world of skin bioactives, few ingredients are rising as quickly – and quietly – as isorhamnetin. This naturally occurring flavonol has long circulated in scientific literature, but only recently has it captured the attention of formulators searching for smarter ways to manage oiliness and inflammation.

Isorhamnetin stands out for its triple-action profile. As a potent antioxidant, it neutralizes ROS generated during sun exposure. As an anti-inflammatory molecule, it helps modulate cytokine activity. As a seboregulator, it shows promising potential in balancing overactive sebocytes under heat and UV stress. This makes it uniquely positioned for summer-focused, combination-to-oily skin solutions.

What makes the story even more compelling is its origin: prickly pear cactus flower, a resilient desert plant adapted to extreme sun and oxidative environments. This botanical source offers a renewable, water-rise alternative to traditional flavonoid extraction, aligning with the industry’s growing push toward sustainable actives. One key advantage is standardization.

Puryflower™ by Bionap: A Multitarget Active for Lightweight Formulations

Puryflower™ is Bionap’s botanical active, designed specifically for the modern challenges of oily and combination skin. Sourced from the previously mentioned prickly pear cactus flowers, this extract naturally delivers isorhamnetin. By concentrating and standardizing this molecule, Puryflower™ brings a rare level of consistency and performance to a category often driven by variable plant extracts.

A Sustainable Source with Regenerative Potential

Prickly pear thrives in arid environments with minimal water demand, making it an inherently low-impact crop. Bionap’s harvesting model supports regenerative agriculture in Mediterranean ecosystems, transforming a resilient desert flower into a high-value active with a light environmental footprint.

Multi-Mechanism Power Backed by Biology 

At the cellular level, Puryflower™ targets the key pathways responsible for summer reactivity:

• Seboregulation, by helping balance lipid production

• Anti-inflammatory activity, as it reduces cytokines also involved in heat and UV induced irritation

• Antioxidant defense by neutralizing ROS induced by UV exposure, preventing pore congestion and uneven texture

Together, these mechanisms help stabilize oily skin when it’s most volatile.

In Vitro and In Vivo Studies: The Data Behind the Claims 

Studies conducted by Bionap show significant improvements across markers linked to oily skin imbalance. In vitro assays demonstrate strong antioxidant capacity and reduced inflammatory mediator, while in vivo testing confirms visible improvements in skin clarity, shine control, and perceived smoothness. Together, these findings validate Puryflower™ as a high-performance, biomimetic solution for UV-exposed skin.

Why Puryflower™ Excels in Suncare and Modern Formulations 

Unlike many traditional anti-shine or anti-blemish actives, Puryflower™ doesn’t rely on harsh keratolytics on drying agents. Instead, it supports the skin’s own regulatory mechanism, making it ideal for daily-wear, long-term use, including during peak sun season. This gently yet targeted active allows formulators to create products that feel sophisticated on the skin: breathable, non-comedogenic, and suitable for both sensitive and combination profiles.

This ingredient also blends effortlessly into modern texture architectures. It performs well alongside UV filters, antioxidants, and barrier-support ingredients, making it a natural fit for multifunctional formulas that streamline routines while enhancing sensorial appeal.

💡 Covalo Tip: Looking for a ready-to-use starting point? Check out Bionap’s Purifying Sorbet Cream Gel formulation on Covalo – a lightweight cream-gel featuring PuryFlower™ and created for combination and oily skin. It offers a long-lasting mattifying finish and a smooth, even skin texture.

A New Path for Oily Skin Resilience 

Seasonal changes, especially heat and humidity, can make oily skin feel more active, prompting consumers to look for lighter textures and better sebum balance. Formulators increasingly turn to actives that support the skin's natural balance rather than simply masking shine.

Isorhamneting brings a next-generation, science-backed approach to this problem, offering antioxidant strength, soothing action, and seboregulation in one molecule. And with Puryflower™, Bionap has transformed this promising flavonol into a high-performing, sustainably sourced active optimized for modern skincare.

From its desert-bloom origin to its multitarget mechanisms and in-vivo proven results, Puryflower™ stands at the intersection of innovation, sustainability, and clinical efficacy.

👉 Explore Puryflower™ by Bionap on Covalo to access the full documentation, technical specifications, and formulation opportunities!