Industry News Flash #15 - Personal Care - 5 February 2025

⚡️ Personal Care Industry News Flash 🗞️ 

Ingredient Launch:

IFF's recently launched fragrance molecule, Ylanganate, is positioned by the company as the "first new" solution for perfumers. It holds a variety of solar white floral notes and offers a "gentle complexity and calm sensuality", enhancing the performance of fruity, sweet, and vanillic-balsamic notes in perfume formulations. The company highlights that this ingredient doesn't pose a risk to decoloration, requires low dosage levels (below 0.5%), and aligns with a readily biodegradable positioning. Check out IFF's portfolio on Covalo here!

Scientific Breakthrough:

Sulfates are under consumer scrutiny for environmental concerns and their tendency to strip oil from skin, scalp, and hair. A recent Cosmetics study by Evelyn Su and Stephen Herman highlights amino acid-based surfactants as a promising alternative. Glutamates (ideal for skin) and alaninates (best for hair) emerged as the top contenders, offering safety, biodegradability, and strong performance—making them a commercially viable, sustainable choice. Read the full study here.

Regulations & Compliance:

A welcome update in the realm of regulations: the SCCS approved a new mandate on January 22, 2025 to assess CBD safety, setting a maximum safe concentration and addressing THC contamination. CBD is widely used in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and sebum-regulating properties, benefiting skin healing and acne prevention. However, manufacturers must ensure compliance by minimizing impurities—especially THC, which is prohibited under Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009 and listed in Annex II as a narcotic under the 1961 Single Convention on Narcotic Drugs. Click here for the full mandate.

Company Update:

After two consecutive quarters of declining sales, Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) has announced a restructuring plan to boost profitability, including 5800-7000 job cuts by fiscal 2026. Meanwhile, Stéphane de La Faverie, its new President and CEO, has unveiled Beauty Reimagined, a strategic vision to restore sustainable growth. Key initiatives focus on expanding ELC's portfolio with demand-driven products and enhancing consumer engagement.

Sustainability Update:

L'Oréal and IBM have teamed up to develop an AI model for sustainable cosmetics innovation. Combining L'Oréal's cosmetic expertise with IBM's AI capabilities, the partnership aims to accelerate the creation of eco-friendly, inclusive beauty products. Aligned with the "L'Oréal for the future" commitment, the initiative supports the goal of sourcing most product formulas from sustainable materials by 2030—advancing both innovation and ecological responsibility in the beauty industry

Events & Tradeshows:

You've still got two months left to prepare for in-cosmetics Global. Taking place on 8-10 April in Amsterdam, in-cosmetics Global is the place to connect, inspire, share insights, and spark new collaborations. Secure your free tickets here!

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