Industry News Flash #14 - Personal Care - 22 January 2024

⚡️ Personal Care Industry News Flash 🗞️ 

Ingredient Launch:

Oralitos PE by Jaka Biotech is a natural active raw material developed from Phyllanthus emblica fruits, also known as Indian gooseberries. It is rich in phenols and flavonoids and can relieve halitosis - an oral health problem where the main symptom is bad smelling breath - by inhibiting the growth of halitosis-correlated bacteria and removing volatile sulfur compounds in the oral cavity. Long-term use can improve oral health. Check it out on Covalo now! 

Scientific Breakthrough:

Although snail mucin, or slime, has gained popularity in beauty products for its plumping and skin-smoothing benefits, concerns about the welfare of snails exist. The methods of sourcing can induce stress in these small creatures, even when reputable producers attempt to minimize their discomfort. To address this issue, Marie Wei, a senior in molecular biology at Johns Hopkins' Krieger School, and Cecelia Zhang, a biomedical engineering senior at the Whiting School, aim to synthetically create what they identify as the key protein in snail mucus: epiphragmin. Since 2022, this duo has been dedicated to their "AminoArtisans" project. According to Johns Hopkins, once Wei and Zhang grasp the molecular mechanisms, they plan to engineer epiphragmin through a synthetic process to streamline its production. Subsequently, they expect to provide it for skin care manufacturers and medical drug research. They also aim to enhance its properties by engineering it to be a more potent and useful substance, such as increasing its adhesiveness or targeting specific cancer cells through protein mutagenesis or gene mutation.

Regulations & Compliance:

The FDA recently released updated guidance on the Registration and Listing of Cosmetic Product Facilities and Products, addressing numerous questions raised since the original publication. While the initial guidance provided recommendations and instructions for submitting cosmetic products to the FDA, some areas remained unclear—such as the responsibilities of the US Agent, whether each building involved in the manufacturing or processing of cosmetic products needs a separate FEI number, and the requirements for product listings regarding free samples and/or gifts. The revised guidance, released on December 11, 2024, clarifies key points, including who must register, what information must be provided, how and when to submit this information, and the available exemptions. Additionally, it introduces new FAQs to further support compliance efforts.

In her latest article, our toxicology and regulations expert Christine Thiffault breaks down the key updates. Read her insights here.

Company Update:

PFAS, or "forever chemicals", are a group of over 10.000 synthetic compounds known for their water- and grease-resistant properties, commonly found in cosmetics. Despite their usefulness, PFAS has sparked serious environmental and health concerns due to their persistence and potential toxicity. In response, Croda, a global leader in specialty chemicals, is taking proactive steps to eliminate substainces like trifluoracetic acid (TFA) from its peptide synthesis process, prioritizing both safety and sustainability. Many of their ingredients are already TFA-free, with more to follow in the coming months. Committed to sustainability, Croda aims to achieve a fully PFAS-free portfolio by the end of 2026.

Sustainability Update:

ChainCraft, a leader in circular chemical production, has partnered with Royal Avebe, a pioneer in potato-based starch and protein innovation, to transform Avebe's residual potato juice into high-value circular fatty acids using ChainCraft's fermentation technology. This breakthrough enables the replacemnt of fossil feedstocks and palm oil, reducing carbon footprints and helping preserve biodiversity by preventing deforestation. The partnership offers a sustainable solution for manufacturers of specialty chemicals, animal feed, lubricants, and flavors and fragrances, supporting their efforts to achieve climate goals. 

Events & Tradeshows:

Despite it only being January, it's never too early to start preparing for your in-cosmetics Global experience! Taking place on 8-10 April in Amsterdam, in-cosmetics Global is the place to connect, inspire, share insights, and spark new collaborations. Secure your free tickets here!

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