Why Dermocosmetics are at the Top of Skincare Retail

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• Dermocosmetics are not just trending; they're here to stay
• The search for multifunctional, high-performance ingredients
• Where Medicine Meets Skincare for Improved Results

Dermocosmetics are not just trending; they're here to stay

As economic strain continues to enter consumers’ lives, they become more and more aware of where they spend their money. This shift in behavior drives demand for products that offer both efficacy and value. The appeal of dermocosmetics stems from the joining of skincare with medicine, providing science-backed solutions that justify the investment. Another factor weighing is the growing demand for multifunctional, high-performance ingredients - and recommendations from dermatologists. 

We have seen that brands such as Cerave, Avène, La Roche Posay or Dr Barbara Sturm are gaining traction on social media, and their product launches are nothing short of successful. 

This popularity is not only noticeable on the consumer side. It is also reflected by what formulators are searching for. According to Covalo’s data: 

• 7 out of the Top 10 2024 most popular ingredients are linked to, or can support, dermocosmetics. These are ingredients suitable for skincare, supporting claims like: Improve Skin Barrier Function, Skin Repair, Anti-acne, Anti-wrinkle, Brightening, UV Protection, or Antioxidant.
• More than 60% of the top 100 most searched for ingredients by formulators are associated to dermocosmetics 

💡 Covalo tip: You can search for dermocosmetics in Covalo by using our brand new dermocosmetics trend filter! This filter allows you to browse through all relevant ingredients to find the right one for your next breakthrough product.

The search for multifunctional, high-performance ingredients

Looking at global data from Covalo, there is a clear pattern emerging: ingredients attracting the most traffic are those that serve multiple roles in formulations. There are two key factors why this is happening:

• These ingredients enable performance claims and demonstrate versatility across various application areas 
• Consumers are on the lookout for products that can tackle various skin concerns with high efficiency

We now see that formulators are moving away from creating products centered around a single “hero” ingredient, like a hyaluronic acid cream or a retinol serum. These products were heavily marketed for their individual benefits—brightening, hydrating, or anti-aging—often positioning them as must-haves in a routine. However, as consumers increase their research into the products they buy, the more they look into multifaceted ingredients that can work in more than just one claim. 

Instead, they aim to deliver multiple benefits in a single product or even enhance the delivery of the same benefit through different mechanisms, ensuring maximum efficacy. A great example of this are Milky Toners, the new major trend in skincare. The appeal stems from the skin hydration and protection formed by a blend of humectants, emollients, and occlusives, maintaining a healthy skin barrier. 

This makes every ingredient in a formulation crucial, with a focus for those that can serve dual purposes. As the conscious beauty trend continues and grows, consumers are now more aware than ever of the environmental harm from their beauty consumption. Another factor weighing into their decision is the negative reactions their own skin can have by mixing various serums, toners and creams. 

This dual-purpose functionality is also reflected in the best performing dermocosmetic ingredients on Covalo, where both active and functional ingredients are among the most sought-after. Let’s explore which groups of ingredients are trending in Covalo!

Bioactive polypeptides and proteins, and hydrolyzed proteins

Bioactive polypeptides, such as peauforiaᵀᴹ and peauvita™ from Core Biogenesis, attract significant search traffic. Both exemplify the next frontier of biotechnology actives, leveraging plant-derived production systems to deliver Fibroblast Growth Factor-2 (FGF-2) and Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) with enhanced stability and delivery via oleosome fusion technology. Both have their efficacy claims backed by clinical data, as well as sustainability claims safeguarding on the ingredient impact.

Despite strengthening the skin’s barrier by reducing transepidermal water loss, hydrolyzed proteins seem to remain a relatively underexplored ingredient group for dermocosmetics. Among 80,000 ingredients listed, the number of hydrolyzed protein ingredients delivering dermocosmetics claims is still scarce, and receiving very little attention from formulators - according to Covalo's 2024 traffic data.

Looking at the different hydrolyzed proteins listed on the platform, these are predominantly of plant origin—such as wheat, rice, almond, pea, seed, and soy—with only a small minority derived from animal sources like milk and egg yolk. Interestingly, among these, “Hydrolyzed soy” stands out as the search term in highest demand by formulators based on keyword search volume on Covalo. 

Antioxidants 

Antioxidants are the most prevalent benefit across dermocosmetic ingredients, with 1 in every 3 dermocosmetic-related ingredients listed on the platform claiming antioxidant properties. This highlights their centrality not only in addressing environmental and oxidative damage, but also in meeting consumer demand for high-efficacy, multi-benefit formulations.

Two standout examples of highly sought-after antioxidant ingredients on Covalo are:

• LignoGuard Aqua 20 PG by Lignovations: Derived from upcycled lignin, offers a sustainable, multifunctional solution with strong antioxidant properties, an in-vivo SPF boost of up to 50%, and formulation stabilization benefits. 
• OLIVAN DiuVitae by Atanor 118: combines hydration with triple antioxidant activity, neutralizing free radicals, stimulating antioxidant production, and protecting cell membranes from oxidative damage.

These innovations exemplify how antioxidants are evolving to meet demands for high-performance, multifunctional, and eco-friendly solutions in dermocosmetics.

Where Medicine Meets Skincare for Improved Results

In a world where skincare is more than just a routine, dermocosmetics have emerged as the perfect balance between beauty and science, offering consumers products that deliver clinically backed results. With formulas developed by dermatologists and powered by active ingredients, these products go beyond surface-level benefits to address specific skin concerns - whether it’s sensitivity, acne, aging, or hydration. 

Consumers today appreciate transparency, efficacy, and safety, making dermocosmetics a trusted skincare, proving that innovation and credibility are true essentials for radiant, healthy skin. Backed by Covalo’s data, formulators are exploring the power of dermocosmetics for new products that follow this new consumer demand. 

Want to explore dermocosmetic ingredients? Explore our brand new trend section here!

If you're going to in-cosmetics Global 2025, attend the Dermocosmetics panel!