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- Fermentation: the basics
- Enhanced bioavailability and efficacy
- Natural preservation and stability
- Sustainability and eco-friendly production
Fermentation: the basics
The process of fermentation involves the transformation of a substance through the action of bacteria, fungi, plant cell cultures, or enzymes. First, suitable raw materials are prepared and exposed to an appropriate starter culture, such as bacteria, yeast, or other microbes. Close monitoring of temperature, pH, and time is necessary to maintain ideal fermentation conditions. After reaching the desired degree of fermentation, the process is stopped and the product is refined to create a reliable, stable cosmetic ingredient.
The beauty of fermentation, and its potential for the cosmetics industry, lies in "the enormous portfolio of ingredients that can be synthesized by microorganisms and be suitable for a wide range of cosmetic products".1 According to research, fermented plant products show varied biological activity, including antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties, finding that fermented plant products affect exogenous factors and pose anti-aging and anti-wrinkles activities. Fermented leaves and branches of honeybush extracts, for example, "indicate a high potential for anti-aging products use through strong antibiotic activity, significant ability to inhibit collagenase and hyaluronidase, and a weak influence on elastase activity, as well as medium photoprotection (sun protection factor, SPF)".2
As you can see, fermented beauty ingredients have proven themselves with impressive performance benefits in cosmetics, but there's more to it. Let's dive into the three key benefits of using fermented ingredients in your products:
- Enhanced bioavailability and efficacy
- Natural preservation and stability
- Sustainable and eco-friendly production
Scroll down to explore how each of these benefits can elevate your formulations!
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Enhanced bioavailability and efficacy
One of the reasons why fermented ingredients are so effective is because of their bioavailability. During the fermentation process, ingredient molecules are broken down, making them smaller and more easily absorbed by the skin.3 This increased bioavailability means that ingredients can penetrate deeper and deliver nutrients more effectively, improving the product's overall efficacy.
Furthermore, fermented ingredients often come with probiotic benefits, which can support the skin's microbiome: "[...] fermentation can result in probiotics or postbiotics in the form of peptides, acids, and enzymes, which can help to support the skin barrier and as a result reduce the potential for skin inflammation and sensitivity".4
A healthy microbiome is crucial for maintaining skin balance, reducing inflammation, and protecting against harmful bacteria. This multifaceted approach makes fermented ingredients a valuable addition to skincare formulations, offering both immediate and long-term benefits for healthier, more resilient skin.
Natural preservation and stability
Preservation is key when creating formulations; cosmetics require preservatives against microbial contamination to guarantee the safety of consumers, and to increase the product's shelf life.
This is where fermented ingredients can play a big role. During the fermentation process, natural acids and antimicrobial compounds are often produced. These natural acids are hostile to microbial growth, helping protect cosmetics against spoilage without having to resort to synthetic preservatives.5 This extends the shelf life of products while maintaining a "cleaner", more natural label, which appeals to the consumer looking for minimalist and natural formulations.
Sustainable and eco-friendly production
If its enhanced efficacy and prolonged shelf life haven't convinced you to start using fermented ingredients yet, its sustainability aspect might. Generally, fermentation is a low-impact, eco-friendly process using fewer resources, which reduces the environmental footprint. Additionally, it enables the use of renewable plant-based foundations, often making it a more sustainable alternative to synthetic or animal-derived ingredients. "Many cosmetic ingredients have been scrutinized for their environmental impact and/or consumer risk. The search for new ingredients and ingredient sources is pivotal for the sustainable growth of this sector. Biotechnology, and fermentation as the core technology, will have a predominant role in the composition of the future skin care raw materials portfolio."1
Because microbial fermentation can produce high yields of ingredients using renewable feedstocks like plant sugars, it reduces the industry's reliance on petroleum-based inputs, meaning the environmental impact is reduced.
💡 Covalo Read Tip: Squalane has come a long way — once sourced from shark liver oil, now sourced sustainably thanks to fermentation. With the help of biotechnology innovation, Givaudan has created Neossance™ Squalane, sustainably sourced through cutting-edge sugarcane fermentation. Click here to read more about this ingredient
Conclusion
Incorporating fermented ingredients aligns with consumer demand for effective, natural, and environmentally responsible beauty products, creating a win-win for both formulators and conscious consumers. As observed by Happi: "This market will profit from the fact that consumers are gravitating toward products that are more environmentally friendly and making smart choices in this regard".6
If you're ready to elevate your formulations with fermented ingredients, Covalo is the perfect place to start! Our platform offers a biotech-specific filter, allowing you to quickly and easily find biotech ingredients, including those sourced from innovative fermentation processes.
This article is part of our Biotech campaign. Check out our other Biotech content on our landing page!
References
- “Unlocking the Potential of Fermentation in Cosmetics: A Review”, Fermentation journal. Available online. Accessed 6 November 2024.
- “Biological Activity of Fermented Plant Extracts for Potential Dermal Applications”, Pharmaceutics journal. Available online. Accessed 6 November 2024.
- “Use of Waste from the Food Industry and Applications of the Fermentation Process to Create Sustainable Cosmetic Products: A Review”, Sustainability journal. Available online. Accessed 6 November 2024.
- “Fermented Skin Care: Here's What You Need to Know About the Trend”, Allure. Available online. Accessed 6 November 2024.
- “Cosmetics Preservation: A Review on Present Strategies”, Molecules Journal. Available online. Accessed 6 November 2024.
- “Fermentation Is Changing the Beauty Industry”, Happi. Available online. Accessed 6 November 2024.
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