UK SAG-CS publishes opinions on BHT and Kojic Acid in cosmetics

On this page

• Regulation recommendations for BHT
• Regulation recommendations for Kojic Acid
• Safety assessment
• Alternative ingredients for BHT and Kojic Acid
• In conclusion

The United Kingdom's Scientific Advisory Group on Chemical Safety of Non-Food and Non-Medicinal Consumer Products (SAG-CS) has recently issued two crucial opinions regarding the usage of Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT) and Kojic Acid in cosmetics. These ingredients were previously unregulated under the UK Cosmetic Products Regulation, but concerns about their potential as endocrine disruptors (chemicals or substances that can interfere with the normal functioning of the endocrine system in humans and other animals) have prompted a reassessment.

 Regulation recommendations for BHT

Butylated Hydroxytoluene has been a common ingredient in various cosmetic products, serving as an antioxidant and preservative. The SAG-CS has proposed recommended maximum concentrations for BHT in different product categories:

• Up to 0.1% in toothpaste
• Up to 0.001% in mouthwashes and directly applied oral care products
• Up to 0.8% in other cosmetic products.

These proposed regulations aim to ensure that BHT is used at safe concentrations in cosmetics.

Regulation recommendations for Kojic Acid

Kojic Acid, known for its skin-lightening and depigmenting properties, will see restrictions in the UK. The proposed regulations state:

• Up to 1% in face cream (including application to the neck)
• Exclusion from all other cosmetic products

These recommended regulations acknowledge the safe use of Kojic Acid within certain product categories. For more information on the restriction of Kojic Acid in the EU, read our article here.

Safety assessments

Despite initial concerns about BHT and Kojic Acid as potential endocrine disruptors, the safety assessments conducted did not classify them as such. The assessments suggest that these ingredients can be used safely within the specified concentration limits in cosmetic products.

For BHT, the SAG-CS commented that BHT was "not acutely toxic via the oral or dermal routes of exposure"¹. They noted that the dermal absorption of BHT is low. Studies have shown that BHT is slightly irritating to the skin, but the members noted that, considering the low concentrations used in formulated products, BHT is not a skin or eye irritant when used in cosmetic products. Considering the weight of the evidence available, they concluded that BHT is not considered endocrine active.

Regarding Kojic Acid, the members of the SAG-CS concluded that it does exhibit endocrine activity, "but the evidence from the study data is not sufficient to conclude that Kojic Avid is an endocrine disruptor that causes adverse outcomes in vivo. It is unlikely that Kojic Acid is endocrine disruptive in vivo and causes adverse outcomes at the exposure levels that are likely to be experienced by the majority of the population through cosmetic use at the specified levels."²

^{Alternative ingredients for BHT and Kojic Acid}

If you're looking to explore alternative ingredients for BHT and Kojic Acid, we recommend filtering for preservatives and brightening ingredients on Covalo x in-cosmetics, respectively. On the index, use our intuitive filters on the left-hand side of the screen to find the right ingredient for you!

In conclusion