On this page
A new wave of quantitative hair and scalp analysis is reshaping how efficacy is evaluated.
Instead of relying solely on consumer feedback, formulators and researchers now have access to precise instrumentation:
These tools shift evaluation from interpretation to measurement. They allow researchers to track biological change directly, not just cosmetic effects.
When evaluated with these tools, hair biology becomes trackable across key endpoints:
These are not abstract claims. They are measurable biological signals.
When multiple parameters shift together, it signals coordinated biological change, not just surface-level improvement.
Growth factors have long been explored in skincare for their role in cell signaling, tissue repair, and extracellular matrix regulation.
Fibroblast Growth Factor-2 (FGF-2) is one such molecule, involved in dermal papilla signaling, keratinocyte activity, and angiogenesis. These pathways are not exclusive to skin. They are central to hair follicle biology.
The opportunity is clear. If growth factors can influence skin regeneration, can they also modulate the hair cycle?
That question is now moving from theory to measurable outcome.
Historically, two major challenges have limited the use of growth factors in cosmetic applications:
Traditional production methods, such as fermentation, focus on generating purified proteins. However, purification introduces additional challenges, particularly around stability and formulation complexity.
An alternative approach is emerging, where stabilization and delivery are integrated into ingredient design. One example is the fusion of growth factors with plant-derived oleosomes, which can act as both a protective environment and a delivery system.
Text continues below image
Using this type of approach, an oleosome-delivered FGF-2 active has been evaluated in a placebo-controlled clinical study involving 40 participants over 84 days.
Instrumental measurements showed statistically significant improvements across multiple biological endpoints:
These outcomes were measured using quantitative imaging and instrumentation rather than subjective evaluation.
When viewed in the context of published benchmarks for existing scalp actives, both the magnitude and speed of these changes highlight how rapidly measurable biological shifts can occur when follicular pathways are directly targeted.
What is emerging, is a broader shift in the industry. Haircare is moving from:
For formulators and researchers, this changes the development process itself. Ingredients are no longer evaluated only on how they feel or look, but on how they influence measurable biological systems.
Quantitative hair and scalp analysis is not just a new toolset. It is becoming a new standard.
As more advanced actives enter the market, particularly biomimetic proteins and signaling molecules, expectations around data and validation will continue to rise.
Because in the end, haircare does not lack innovation.
It has lacked measurement.
And that is finally starting to change.
Find Core Biogenesis on Covalo.com
The views expressed in this article are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of Covalo.