Covalo Blog

From Shark Liver to Sugarcane, For Good: Squalane's Route to Sustainability Using Biotech

Written by Covalo Team | Nov 4, 2024

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Sharks, olives, and sugarcane — a remarkable journey

The path to today’s plant-based squalene is marked by innovation and determination to find better, more sustainable sources. Initially, squalene — squalane’s precursor — was extracted from shark liver, but the ethical implications, along with the harm to biodiversity, led the industry to seek plant-based alternatives. 

For a while, olives appeared to be a viable alternative. The oil aligns well with the skin’s natural lipids, providing effective moisturization, and because squalene extraction uses a by-product of the olive oil industry, it doesn’t require additional resources. However, yield inconsistencies and year-to-year fluctuations in quality made olive oil a less reliable source. 

This challenge opened the door for biotechnology to make an impact. Leveraging its strengths in creating sustainable alternatives, biotech enabled the development of a squalane ingredient through sugarcane fermentation. This innovation offers a stable, high-quality solution with reliable availability, sufficient supply, and a consistent price — all with the lowest environmental impact.

💡 Squalane vs. Squalene Crash Course: Squalane and squalene might sound alike, but they’re two distinct ingredients. Squalene – that’s with an e — is a natural lipid found in our skin, as well as in plants and animals, playing a crucial role in keeping the skin hydrated and protected. However, squalene is prone to oxidation, which limits its effectiveness in skincare. Enter squalane: the hydrogenated, more stable form of squalene. Squalane delivers the same deep hydration and skin protection benefits without the risk of oxidation, making it formulators’ favorite.

A deep-dive into the history of squalane sourcing

Historically, squalane was extracted from the liver oil of deep-sea sharks, a practice that has since raised serious ethical and environmental concerns. Sharks, particularly those living in the deep ocean, produce large amounts of squalene as part of their natural buoyancy mechanism. Some sharks have up to 90% squalene in their liver, which made them an effective resource.1

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However, harvesting squalene from sharks required killing the animals, often in mass quantities, threatening shark populations and disrupting ecosystems. As a result, this method of sourcing squalane became increasingly scrutinized due to its impact on marine life and the unethical nature of exploiting endangered species for cosmetics. In 2012, a report published by the French ocean conservation nonprofit BLOOM revealed that as much as 90% of shark squalene produced was sold to cosmetic producers, “despite the fact that the big, Western cosmetics companies have a commitment not to use squalene of animal origin in the formulation of their creams.”2 This number corresponded to 2.7 million deep sea sharks caught every year.

In response to the rising ethical and ecological concerns, the beauty industry sought plant-based alternatives, with olive oil emerging as a viable source of squalane. The process involved extracting squalene from the byproducts of olive oil production, such as the unsaponifiable fraction of olive oil. This fraction, making up only a small portion of the total oil, was collected and purified to produce squalane through hydrogenation — a process that stabilizes the molecule, making it more suitable for use in cosmetics. In terms of animal rights and sustainability, this step towards olive oil did make a difference, but this wasn’t without its own challenges. As mentioned above, olive oil production is highly susceptible to environmental factors, leading to inconsistent yields, price volatility, and fluctuations in color. Research published in Farmacia Journal3 illustrates this variability, noting that “[t]he squalene concentration in olive oil varies between 200 and 7,500 mg/kg of oil, depending on the cultivar and the geographic cultivation area.” Further studies in Northern Italy revealed year-to-year fluctuations of about 10% in squalene content, which researchers attributed to changes in soil and climate conditions.

Another major factor impacting the quality, yield, and price stability of olive-derived squalane is the susceptibility of olive trees to pest invasions. Among the most damaging pests is the olive fruit fly (Bactrocera olaea), which infests olive groves, causing severe pre- and post-harvest damage.4 The larvae feed on olive pulp, deteriorating the fruit from within, which can lead to a significant drop in oil quality due to increased acidity, oxidation, and other negative chemical changes. As a result, the squalene content in affected olives can be substantially compromised, leading to irregularities in both yield and quality.

In short: environmental factors like seasonal temperatures and rainfall, combined with pest infestations, make olive oil an unpredictable source of squalene. Thus, the beauty industry was again in search of a more dependable and sustainable source, which brings us to biotech-produced squalane

The biotech breakthrough: fermentation and sustainability

Ultimately, the ethical implications of shark oil and the limitation of olive-derived squalane drove the search for a more sustainable and scalable solution. This is where biotechnology, and specifically fermentation, provided the answer.

Fermentation is the art of transforming microorganisms, such as yeast, fungi, or bacteria, into valuable end products through controlled biochemical reactions. This bio-based production method often has a low or even zero-carbon footprint, enabling the creation of either carbon-neutral or carbon-negative products5. The sustainability of fermentation lies in its use of renewable biomass-derived carbon as its primary energy source, reducing reliance on fossil fuels and supporting environmentally friendly production practices.

Biotech-derived squalane offers the best of both worlds: it meets the growing demand for sustainable, high-quality ingredients while minimizing environmental impact and conserving natural resources. By using plant-based sugars (such as those from sugarcane), fermentation processes now enable the production of high-purity, plant-based squalane at scale, without the environmental and ethical drawbacks associated with previous sources.

Sugarcane sourcing: Givaudan’s sustainable solution Neossance™ Squalane

Following the two previous generations of squalane, a new alternative has emerged: sugarcane. Sugarcane-derived squalane is produced through a biotechnological process that involves fermenting glucose. This innovative method not only enhances sustainability, but also delivers a high-quality ingredient.

Sugar-derived squalane, like high-purity shark squalane, consists of 99% hydrocarbons and closely mirrors the performance characteristics of its shark-derived counterpart, including odor, density, refractive index, and viscosity. Even better: it is renewable and environmentally friendly.6

Givaudan’s Neossance™ is at the forefront of this movement, setting a new standard for sustainability and performance. The company’s focus on sugarcane-derived squalane ensures a solution that is both environmentally responsible and highly effective in skincare formulations.

Neossance™ Squalane is produced using a fermentation process known as “white technology” (creating active cosmetic ingredients through the use of micro-organisms or enzymes7), derived from Bonsucro-certified renewable sugarcane. The sugarcane is cultivated in coastal Brazil, ensuring minimal environmental disruption and at a safe distance from forested areas. Bonsucro, a non-profit organization supported by the World Wildlife Foundation, promotes sustainable sugarcane production, processing, and trade. The platform ensures that brands and consumers can trust that Givaudan’s cosmetic ingredients are both sustainable and ethically sourced from the start.

With its superior quality and proven performance, Neossance™ Squalane has quickly risen to become a market leader in the cosmetic industry, offering a reliable and environmentally responsible solution for formulators.

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The performance behind Neossance™ Squalane

Beyond its impressive sustainability credentials, Neossance™ Squalane also delivers exceptional performance in skincare products. Clinical studies have demonstrated its ability to promote radiant skin by boosting epidermal cell turnover, smoothing the skin, and reducing the appearance of wrinkles. It provides immediate and long-lasting hydration, making it an ideal moisturizer for all skin types.

One study involving 17 participants using 100%  Neossance™ Squalane as a face oil twice a day for two weeks found a significant increase in bacterial diversity by 17.9%. This diversity is associated with younger and healthier skin. Another double-blind clinical trial conducted with 30 volunteers revealed that a cream containing 5% Neossance™ Squalane, applied twice daily, significantly improved skin moisturization, elasticity, and reduced roughness.8

What’s more, Neossance™ Squalane enhances the efficacy of active ingredients, such as retinyl acetate and cannabinoids. Serving as an ideal carrier, it optimizes the delivery and performance of these activities in skincare formulations, making it a versatile ingredient for effective product development.

Leading the way in sustainable skincare

The shift from animal and plant-based squalane to biotech solutions is not only a victory for animal rights and biodiversity, but also aligns with the increasing consumer demand for sustainable and eco-conscious beauty products. By moving away from both shark- and olive-derived squalane, we can protect ecosystems, reduce deforestation pressures, and lessen the environmental impact of beauty products. 

Givaudan Active Beauty has positioned itself as a leader in beauty ingredient innovation and sustainability. Through their advanced fermentation processes, they are producing a sustainable squalane that not only meets the needs of formulators, but does so without compromising the environment. Givaudan’s biotech solutions showcase how innovation can truly support environmental stewardship.

Interested in seeing how Neossance™ squalane can transform your formulations? Request a sample today, and make sure to visit Givaudan in-person at in-cosmetics Asia, stand H40, to learn more about their groundbreaking biotech ingredients. 

References:

  1. The ineluctable end of olive squalane sourcing”, Bloomage. Available online. Accessed 30 October 2024.
  2. “The Hideous Price of Beauty: Cosmetics Industry Drives Deep-Sea Shark Extinctions”, Bloom association. Available online. Accessed 23 October 2024.
  3. “Squalene - Natural Resources and Applications”, Farmacia Journal. Available online. Accessed 30 October 2024. 
  4. “Effect of olive fruit fly infestation on the quality of olive oil from Chemlali cultivar during ripening”, Food and Chemical Toxicology. Available online. Accessed 30 October 2024. 
  5. “Carbon emissions and decarbonisation: The role and relevance of fermentation industry in chemical sector”, Chemical Engineering Journal. Available online. Accessed 30 October 2024.
  6. “Deriving Renewable Squalane from Sugarcane”, Cosmetotheque. Available online. Accessed 30 October 2024.
  7. “White biotechnology”, Givaudan. Available online. Accessed 30 October 2024.
  8. “Neossance™ Squalane, High purity biotech squalane from sugarcane”, Givaudan. Accessed 30 October 2024.