In the ever-evolving world of cosmetic formulation, sustainability has become more than just a buzzword—it's a necessity. As a cosmetic scientist, I've dedicated my career to creating products that are not only effective but also environmentally responsible. In 2018, a client's request set me on a challenging journey that would test my skills and commitment to sustainable beauty: formulating a facial cream entirely free from palm oil.
Understanding the impact of palm
Before delving into my formulation journey, it's essential to provide some context on the cosmetics industry's use of palm oil and its environmental impact. Palm oil is a versatile and inexpensive vegetable oil found in various personal care and cos- metic products, including facial creams. However, its production has led to widespread deforestation, habitat destruction, and increased greenhouse gas emissions, contributing to climate change. These environmental concerns have made palm oil a contentious ingredient in the industry. The issues surrounding palm oil are multifaceted and deeply concerning:
- Environmental Destruction: Palm oil plantation expansion has led to widespread deforestation, destroying natural habitats for countless animal species. The United Nations reports that some forest fires in Indonesia, which create hazardous haze, are intentionally set for "slash and burn" agriculture, particularly to expand oil palm plantations.
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Climate Impact: Forests and peatlands are crucial carbon sinks. Peatlands alone store about 550 gigatons of CO2, accounting for 42% of global CO2 storage. In tropical areas, peat soil stores even more CO2 than the rainforests growing on it. The destruction of these ecosystems for palm oil production significantly contributes to climate change.
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Worker Exploitation: While the palm oil industry generates immense profits, workers often receive shockingly low wages. The industry's success is partly built on this exploitation, as documented by various human rights organisations.
- Industry Scale: While not as large as the food and biofuel sectors, the cosmetics industry is also a notable consumer of palm oil. Several sources indicate that the demand for Certified Sustainable Palm Oil (CSPO) has been rising faster than the supply recently.
Nevertheless, alternatives like soy, rapeseed, and coconut oil can also present issues if not sustainably sourced. The challenge lies in identifying truly sustainable options or ensuring responsible sourcing practices.
My quest for a viscous palm-free cream
When my client asked for a palm oil-free facial cream in 2018, I was already formulating natural skincare products within NATRUE guidelines and maintaining vegan standards. Creating safe and stable emulsions within these parameters was challenging enough—adding "palm oil-free" to the mix seemed daunting. Back then I didn't have the wide network of suppliers I have now, and Covalo wasn't founded either.
This question intrigued me, as it presented a puzzle that required an understanding of ingredient interactions and formulation techniques. I became determined to find a solution and went into hyper-focus mode.
My first hurdle was sourcing a palm-free emulsifier that was both vegan and NATRUE compliant.
The initial emulsifiers I found fell short in the first round of selection. Many were incompatible with vegetable oils—important if you are formulating within NATRUE guidelines. I tested them with oils of varying polarities, but creating a stable frame formulation within NATRUE guidelines proved elusive.
One promising emulsifier was Dermofeel GSC POF. Despite extensive experimentation, including combining palm free emulsifiers, but increasing viscosity led to decreased stability in the emulsions—unsuitable for the luxurious cream my client desired. Moreover, I wasn't satisfied with the skin feel of these emulsions.
After nearly a year of palm-free experiments, I had to concede temporary defeat. I created a facial cream for this client using an RSPO palm-containing emulsifier, and both the client and I fell in love with the skin feel. However, the challenge of creating a palm-free alternative continued to nag at me.
Eureka!
I put the palm oil issue on the back burner for a few years, waiting for new possibilities to emerge. During this time, I formulated palm oil-free emulsion serums using ingredients like Ecogel from Lucas Meyer, keeping my skills sharp and my mind open to new solutions.
The turning point came during the virtual inCosmetics event of 2020. There, I discovered Olivoil Glutamate Emulsifier G-PF, a palm-free emulsifier that rekindled my hope. Skeptical but intrigued, I decided to give it a try.
To my delight, I successfully formulated wonderful, thick, and full-bodied palm oil-free creams in my lab. These formulations survived centrifuge tests and 12-week incubator periods, proving their stability. While achieving the perfect skin feel required more fine-tuning than with palm-based emulsifiers, the results were impressive.
Comparing palm-free and palm-based emulsifiers
As I delved deeper into working with Olivoil Glutamate Emulsifier G-PF, I compared it with my benchmark palm-based emulsifier, Polyaquol 2W. This comparison provided valuable insights:
- pH Sensitivity: Olivoil Glutamate Emulsifier G-PF has a narrower pH window; creams below pH 5.5 quickly destabilise.
- Texture: Despite marketing claims, Olivoil Glutamate Emulsifier G-PF can feel soapy when used with only plant oils. Adding some Isoamyl Laurate reduces that immensely, but it does have palm compounds. I have found Triheptanoin also effective, and that is palm oil-free.
- Versatility: Olivoil Glutamate Emulsifier G-PF offers a wider viscosity range, from sprays to butters.
- Oil Capacity: Olivoil Glutamate Emulsifier G-PF accommodates a broader oil percentage range (1% to 50%).
- Processing: Both are hot process emulsifiers, but Olivoil Glutamate Emulsifier G-PF requires higher temperatures for optimal results.
These differences highlight the complexity of formulating with palm-free alternatives. It's not simply a matter of substitution but requires a profound understanding of ingredient interactions and formulation techniques.
Consumer demand is changing for the better
The quest for palm oil-free cosmetics is part of a larger shift in consumer consciousness. According to the British Beauty Council, around a third of consumers would be willing to pay more for sustainable palm oil or substitutes. This growing awareness creates both challenges and opportunities for the cosmetics industry.
As formulators and brands, we have a responsibility to educate consumers about the complexities of sustainability. It's not just about being "palm-free" but about understanding the entire supply chain and environmental impact of our ingredients.
It is time for a Green Cosmetics Revolution
This journey towards palm oil-free formulations is just one aspect of the broader mission of Green Cosmetics Revolution. As a cosmetic scientist and sustainability advocate, I'm committed to transforming the beauty industry from the inside out.
By partnering with Green Cosmetics Revolution, brands can reduce their environmental footprint, meet growing consumer demand for sustainable products, and contribute to positive change in the beauty industry.
Challenges and opportunities for the future
The journey towards truly sustainable cosmetics is ongoing. While we've made significant growth in palm-free raw materials and those are getting better and easier to work with, there are still challenges to overcome:
- Performance: Continuing to improve the performance of palm-free formulations to match or exceed traditional products.
- Cost: Making sustainable formulations more cost-effective to encourage wider adoption.
- Transparency: Ensuring that alternative ingredients are sourced responsibly and ethically and that this information is readily available for formulators, brands, and consumers.
As more brands commit to sustainability, we'll see increased investment in research and development of new, environmentally friendly ingredients and processes.
Personally, I have a cold process palm free emulsifier on my wish list. I envision it to have an astonishing skin feel, wide pH range, versatile with viscosity and oil percentages. And of course, it is compatible with not only vegetable oils, but also electrolytes. A woman can dream, can’t she?
What can you do?
The quest for palm oil-free cosmetics is more than just a formulation challenge—it's a step towards a more sustainable and ethical beauty industry. Sustainability isn't just about innovation; it's about learning and experimenting.
It's tempting to reach for familiar, frequently used ingredients. However, I challenge you to examine these through a fresh lens. What's the real impact of the ingredients you're using? Are there more sustainable alternatives available?
If these alternatives exist, I urge you: take the time and effort to experiment with them. Sustainability isn't a marketing trend; it's necessary for future generations.
My journey with palm oil-free emulsions has shown that with persistence, creativity, and commitment to sustainability, we can overcome even the most challenging formulation hurdles.
The cosmetics industry is known for its innovative power and ability to adapt quickly to economic necessities and demands. I call on you to apply this same determination and flexibility to address our pressing social and climate challenges.
As we move forward, let's continue to push the boundaries of sustainable cos- metic formulation. By doing so, we create better products and contribute to protecting our planet and its inhabitants.
The future of beauty is green, and it's up to us to make it a reality. Let's take on the challenge to innovate, learn, and experiment together. Only by stepping out of our comfort zones and exploring new paths can we create a truly sustainable beauty industry—one that's beautiful not just on the outside, but on the inside too.
👉 Find palm oil-free ingredients on Covalo.
👉 Get inspired by palm-free formulations on Covalo.
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