Baby skin is known to be enviably supple, smooth, and velvety soft. As people age, one of the most noticeable changes to the skin is a decline in the softness of its outermost layer. This aging process, known as epidermal senescence, is the result of skin cells undergoing natural changes that can lead to wrinkles, dryness, and thinning of the skin. Over time, the skin loses its youthful appearance, resilience, and that “baby softness” – revealing an increasingly dull complexion and a rougher texture.
According to Codif Technologie Naturelle’s Poly-Mer research project, which created new skin models to identify new skin targets, senescent keratinocytes lead to senescent skin, which is marked by a decrease in the number of living cells, reduced thickness of the epidermis, loss of structural cohesion, and destruction of the horny layer (stratum corneum). Skin softness is a sign of vitality and youthfulness that many consumers may take for granted until things start getting a little rougher around the edges.
In the beauty industry, the quest for youthful, baby-soft skin is an ongoing endeavor. It’s no surprise that anti-aging skincare has become an explosive category full of new research and potent ingredients that help reverse or delay the undesired inevitable. From retinoids to peptides, the anti-aging industry (or, rather, the more appropriate “aging better” industry) is booming, with massive market opportunities and a steady stream of new ingredient innovations.
Another active ingredient has joined the anti-aging category, known as Regetaste, developed by Codif Technologie Naturelle. It is created from the pomace (pulp, skin, stems and seeds) of Marie Ménard organic apples, a type of bitter cider apple grown by an agricultural cooperative that meets the Agri-Confiance standards in the Côtes d’Armor region of Brittany, France. This upcycled ingredient reverses epidermal senescence to improve softness and radiance, while driving sustainability in the industry. Results have shown a 12% improvement in the cutaneous barrier after 7 days, +36% improved skin texture, and +74% more radiant complexion.
During the ingredient product development process, Regetaste’s smoothness efficacy claims were also put to a different kind of test, one that involves song. A methodology known as tribology was leveraged, which is essentially the study of friction between surfaces. In the context of skin, they measured skin softness through the sound produced from the skin surface’s friction.
This is the part where you learn how and why your skin sings! Indeed, your skin has a song to sing, and it's all related to texture and touch. The greater the friction (a rougher skin surface), the louder the tune, and vice versa. Codif used the Touchy Finger® instrument to measure the softness of skin based on the “melody,” or sound, that is emitted. They used Touchy Finger® to take measurements for skin, with and without Regetaste applied.
The results? For skin that benefited from Regetaste treatment, a reduction of 2.2dB was observed, which is equivalent to the skin “singing” 20 times softer. A softer tune means less friction, and thus, a softer, happier, epidermal skin layer.
Refer to the below visual to see the differences in the Touchy Finger® measurements. On the left, the friction of the skin before Regetaste is recorded, revealing longer, “louder” streaks, indicating rougher skin. The right hand side of the image shows the softer skin 2 weeks after application of Regetaste, with significantly shorter and “softer” streaks.
So, how does it work? What’s the science – or secret – behind this upcycled ingredient? One thing’s for sure - Codif certainly didn’t shy away from awakening unexpected senses. Having measured softness efficacy through sound and song, taste actually played a huge role in their innovation process.
On the surface of our skin, we have 9 bitterness receptors, known as TAS2Rs. These receptors are primarily known for their role in detecting bitter tastes in the mouth and triggering a response that helps people avoid potentially harmful substances. In the skin, TAS2Rs have been found to play a role in sensing bitter compounds that might indicate the presence of toxins or harmful substances. When these receptors detect such compounds on the skin's surface, they can trigger reactions that help protect the body from potential harm. Basically, the presence of TAS2Rs means that our skin has mechanisms in place to detect and respond to potentially harmful substances, beyond just the taste in our mouths.
Through in-depth research, Codif has found that two receptors – TAS2R4 and TAS2R5 – are particularly present in our skin. By activating and boosting the TAS2Rs on our skin, we can reverse senescence and build up a better antioxidant defense. Regetaste targets TAS2Rs to reverse skin aging in an innovative way. Tapping into the “bitter taste” receptor equivalent on the skin accelerates epidermal regeneration, reinforces the skin barrier’s function, and reduces desquamation – leaving the skin smoother, softer, and more radiant. Regetaste was specifically designed to target our bitter taste receptors to stimulate this regeneration and fortification process.
While Regetaste is promising in its softness and anti-aging benefits, the next burning question for formulators is whether it meets today’s high sustainability standards. Beyond a buzzword, sustainability has become a necessity, with growing environmental concerns and consumer demand for eco-friendly products. Personal care brands and formulators play a crucial role in leading the sustainability movement industry-wide, and bear a responsibility to ensure that every effort is made to ensure a “green” product development process – by prioritizing renewable resources, using upcycled ingredients, minimizing waste, and reducing carbon footprints in their production process.
The ingredient-sourcing step presents a big opportunity to drive sustainable practices. It has become vital for brands to ensure that every selected ingredient aligns with sustainable values and meets regulatory requirements that are only bound to become stricter in the future. Not only does this benefit the planet, but it also resonates with conscious consumers who prioritize ethical and environmentally-friendly choices.
Regetaste is a great example of an upcycled ingredient, brought to life from the discarded parts of bitter cider apples (seeds, stems, etc.), a co-product of the cider-making process. As the Marie Ménard apples have one of the best bitterness balances, these discarded apple parts are then transformed into pomace, and re-used for their effective anti-aging and smoothness properties. This act of upcycling itself – re-using and transforming discarded materials into something better – is a sustainable practice and trend that is here to stay.
Codif has also ensured that Regetaste ticks many other boxes of what consumers are looking for today: plant-based, biodegradable, preservative-free, cruelty-free, certified organic, Cosmos-certified, China-compliant, and more. What’s more, Regetaste has been awarded the innovation award at in-cosmetics Asia, and has won the Green Cosmetic Award. This means that when brands are looking to source new ingredients for an anti-aging product, they can rest assured that Regetaste is a sustainable choice that meets today’s standards and regulations.
As beauty formulators seek innovative solutions for anti-aging products, the introduction of the active ingredient, Regetaste, opens new doors. Regetaste not only effectively softens aging skin, addressing common concerns like wrinkles and a rougher texture, but it also meets the stringent sustainability standards of the industry. This dual functionality makes it a solid choice for skincare formulations. By incorporating Regetaste into their products, brands can offer consumers an effective anti-aging solution while aligning with their growing demand for eco-friendly and ethical options. At Covalo, we work with companies like Codif to supply high-quality ingredients to cosmetic companies that want to deliver on both effectiveness and sustainability, nurturing both the skin and planet alike.
Discover Regetaste on Covalo here.
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