The Collagen Ecosystem: Skin Protection & Repair with Ashland

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• The Complexity of Collagen 
• Collapeptyl™: Multi-Dimensional Collagen Enhancement
• Blumilight™: Modern Protection from Ancient Wisdom
• Where Sustainability Meets Efficacy
• The Future of Collagen Science: Holistic Solutions for Modern Consumers
• Harnessing Nature & Science to Address the Entire Collagen Ecosystem 

In the ever-evolving world of skincare, few ingredients have maintained their iconic status quite like collagen – the most abundant proteins in our bodies, accounting for roughly 30% of all protein. But while consumers have long recognized collagen as essential for youthful skin, what many don't realize is that our skin contains not just one type of collagen, but a complex ecosystem of 28 interconnected varieties—each playing a crucial role in skin health, resilience, and appearance. 

Ashland’s latest innovations launched this year, collapeptyl™ biofunctional and blumilight™ biofunctional, represent two complementary approaches to addressing this complex collagen ecosystem—one through cutting-edge peptide science and the other through sustainable plant-based protection—both delivering remarkable results for today's most demanding skincare consumers. For consumers, finding ways to protect against collagen degradation and boost collagen production is an essential part of skincare rituals and wellness journeys. 

Continue reading to unlock the power of collagen and how Ashland brought a new spin to this cult classic.

The Complexity of Collagen

"Collagen is not just an iconic cosmetic ingredient that consumers are familiar with. It is the structural backbone of the skin, ensuring its strength, resilience, and youthful appearance," explains Justine Cotton, Global Marketing Manager at Ashland. "However, skin is not just made up of one type of collagen, but an ecosystem of 28 interconnected and diverse collagens." 

This understanding has fundamentally changed how we approach collagen in skincare. Each collagen type serves a distinct function—some provide tensile strength, others create flexibility, and still others facilitate interaction with other skin components, like elastin and hyaluronic acid. When these diverse collagen types work in harmony, they create the resilient, smooth, and youthful appearance we associate with healthy skin.

Traditional skincare approaches often target only one or two collagen types. For example, Type I collagen is the most commonly used in skincare products, as it is responsible for skin structure and firmness. While beneficial, this limited, singular focus overlooks the complex interplay between different collagen varieties and their collective impact on skin appearance and function.

Ashland's research reveals that truly effective collagen support requires a more sophisticated, multi-dimensional strategy—one that acknowledges and addresses the full spectrum of skin's collagen diversity. This insight has driven the development of targeted solutions that work with—rather than against—skin's natural processes.

Collapeptyl^TM: Multi-Dimensional Collagen Enhancement

What makes Ashland’s collapeptyl™ biofunctional revolutionary is its ability to address the true complexity of skin's collagen matrix. As Ashland's first-ever hyalupeptide hybrid powered by the innovative 2HP™ technology (Hyaluronic Hybrid Peptide), collapeptyl™ goes beyond conventional single-target approaches.

The key breakthrough lies in collapeptyl™'s ability to mimic and boost an impressive 20 different collagen types simultaneously. This multi-dimensional approach recognizes that youthful skin doesn't depend on just one or two collagen varieties, but on a harmonious balance across the entire collagen family.

"Our research was inspired by the understanding of the complex network of collagens to create collapeptyl™ biofunctional, an advanced hybrid composed of two anti-aging peptides, mimetic of 20 sequences of skin collagens," notes Justine Cotton. What’s more, “it was developed with a unique patent-pending technology powered by an A.I. tool in Molecular Modeling.” 

This comprehensive and innovative collagen-boosting strategy delivers transformative benefits that consumers can both see and feel:

• Instant "glass skin" effect that delivers the coveted luminous, dewy finish
• Velvet-smooth after-feel 
• Correction of expression wrinkles in just 4 hours
• Significant improvement in deep wrinkles within 1 month
• Luxurious sensorial experience through its unique texturactive™ delivery system

Perhaps most impressively, this advanced solution achieves these results while remaining 99.7% natural, vegan-suitable, and PFAS-free—meeting the growing consumer demand for clean yet effective skincare. 

Blumilight^TM: Modern Protection from Ancient Wisdom

While collapeptyl™ addresses the collagen ecosystem directly, blumilight™ biofunctional takes a different but complementary approach—protecting skin from environmental factors that degrade collagen over time.

Inspired by traditional Mayan cocoa rituals, blumilight™ harnesses the power of a rare, white Criollo Porcelana cocoa variety ("cacao blanco") through an innovative non-fermented process that preserves its proteins.

"Over 60 peptides were identified in the composition of blumilight™ and our attention was drawn to a particular sequence linked to the regulation of melanin balance, opening the door for a complete overhaul of blumilight™'s biological mode of action," says Isabelle Imbert, Head of Ashland Biofunctionals R&D.

Through sophisticated proteomic and AI-driven bioinformatic studies, Ashland discovered blumilight™'s ability to counteract photosensory stress by acting on opsins—the skin's light-sensitive receptors. This unique mechanism provides comprehensive protection against both UV and blue light damage, addressing:

• Hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone
• Oxidative stress at both mitochondrial and cellular levels
• Dermal damage to collagen I, fibrilin-1, and elastin networks

Where Sustainability Meets Efficacy

What makes blumilight™ particularly remarkable is that its effectiveness doesn't come at the expense of ethical sourcing or environmental responsibility.

Sourced from a Peruvian cooperative committed to biodiversity, blumilight™ represents the first Peruvian cocoa ingredient certified as both Nagoya compliant and FairTrade. By supporting local producers, Ashland is helping preserve this rare and fragile cocoa variety as a living heritage.

The product itself carries impressive credentials: Cosmos-approved, vegan, biodegradable (according to OECD 301D test), and Natrue-approved—making it an ideal choice for brands committed to clean beauty without compromise.

The Future of Collagen Science: Holistic Solutions for Modern Consumers

Together, collapeptyl™ and blumilight™ represent a new era in collagen science—one that recognizes the complexity of skin biology and addresses it through complementary approaches:

• Immediate and long-term benefits: From instant "glass skin" effects to structural improvements over time
• Inside-out protection: Building collagen resilience while protecting from environmental damage
• Science-backed sensoriality: Delivering not just results but an elevated application experience
• Clean formulation: Achieving breakthrough efficacy while maintaining strong natural and ethical standards

For formulators, collapeptyl™ offers exceptional versatility, working effectively in serums, gels, masks, and creams. Blumilight™ is similarly a suitable solution across active suncare, daycare, and hybrid make-up — both innovations allowing brands to create comprehensive skincare systems that address multiple consumer concerns.

In addition, these two innovative concepts tap into current key market trends, aligning with what today’s consumers are seeking: peptide power, ‘vegan’ collagen, and suncare skinification. 

Harnessing Nature & Science to Address the Entire Collagen Ecosystem 

As consumer understanding of skincare continues to evolve, so too must the science behind it. With collapeptyl™ and blumilight™, Ashland has demonstrated that the future of collagen science lies not in simplistic single-ingredient approaches, but in sophisticated, multi-dimensional solutions that work in harmony with skin's natural processes.

These complementary innovations bridge the gap between immediate satisfaction and long-term results, between scientific advancement and ethical sourcing, between sensorial pleasure and biological efficacy—truly transforming formulations by bridging science, sensoriality, and efficacy like never before.

For brands looking to meet the growing consumer demand for skincare that delivers both instant gratification and meaningful long-term benefits, Ashland's collagen revolution offers an opportunity to develop products that truly stand apart in today's crowded beauty marketplace.

Explore collapeptyl™ and blumilight™ on Covalo and set up your collagen formulations for success today!  

If you're going to in-cosmetics Global, find Ashland at stand #5C70!