On this page
For anyone who attended in-cosmetics Global in Amsterdam this year, "longevity" was certainly the buzzword that defined the show, reflecting a significant shift in the industry towards promoting healthy ageing and long-term skin and hair vitality.
The longevity trend addresses the fundamental biological processes of ageing at the cellular level, including:
This holistic approach aims to support natural skin and scalp mechanisms, leading to improved hydration, resilience, and overall health. But beyond activity, formulators are seeking multifunctional ingredients that not only support these pathways but also align with sustainability targets. This is where upcycled ingredients can demonstrate both longevity innovation and environmental responsibility.
Below, we will spotlight some ingredients that stand out in terms of upcycling and longevity.
FLORA-LEEN™ CISTUS
INCI: Water, Pentylene Glycol, Cistus Ladaniferus Leaf/Stem Extract, Ascorbic acid
Highlights:
FloraLeen™ Cistus by Minasolve is a botanical active derived from Cistus incanus (commonly called rockrose), a plant known for its high polyphenol content and resilience in Mediterranean climates – flourishing without cultivation. This ingredient is positioned at the intersection of phytochemistry and longevity science, with demonstrated activity in reducing telomere shortening, a key biomarker of cellular ageing. By modulating the expression of genes involved in telomere maintenance, FloraLeen™ Cistus helps preserve the replication potential of skin cells. Additionally, it enhances autophagy, an essential cellular cleaning process, improving the removal of damaged organelles and supporting detoxification pathways. These mechanisms collectively contribute to the maintenance of skin homeostasis over time, providing a skin longevity solution that integrates molecular-level repair.
FloraLeen™ Cistus represents a new generation of botanical extracts developed by Minasolve through a fully backward-integrated process, from plant cultivation to final extract, including the solvent medium. Its production incorporates a patented extraction method utilising a sustainable solvent derived from upcycled food industry by-products (A-Leen 5, also produced by Minasolve). According to Minasolve, this ensures not only traceability and quality control at every stage but also a significantly reduced environmental footprint. As a result, FloraLeen™ Cistus delivers high-performance efficacy as a multifunctional active while promoting circular ingredient development.
ALGAKTIV® COLLAGE
INCI: Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Glycerin, Collagen Amino Acids, Propanedio
Highlights:
ALGAKTIV® UpLift
INCI: Glycerin, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract
Highlights:
ALGAKTIV® Collage and ALGAKTIV® UpLift are produced by Algaktiv, a cutting-edge research lab that specialises in developing ingredients from microalgae. Both ingredients are derived through biotechnological processes that valorise microalgal biomass, typically a by-product of industrial cultivation, into high-value actives, aligning with circular economy principles.
ALGAKTIV® Collage is derived from vegan collagen peptides and spermidine, sourced from the extremophile microalga Haematococcus pluvialis. This ingredient is produced through an upcycling process that transforms waste from astaxanthin production into a potent skincare active. Algaktiv's products are recognised for their quality and effectiveness in providing instant lifting, long-term collagen stimulation, skin hydration, and wrinkle reduction. ALGAKTIV® Collage targets cellular rejuvenation by promoting autophagy and enhancing mitochondrial function, increasing ATP production and supporting cellular vitality. It also upregulates the expression of COL1A1 and COL3A1, critical genes encoding type I and III collagen, essential for maintaining dermal structure and resilience.
ALGAKTIV® UpLift modulates extracellular matrix (ECM) dynamics by inhibiting matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and promoting ECM reorganisation. This combined mode of action not only preserves structural skin integrity but also visibly improves firmness and elasticity.
Together, these upcycled biotech actives offer a strategic approach to formulating longevity-driven personal care products with a reduced environmental footprint and substantiated efficacy at a cellular level.
SC-HELP™ DEFENSE
INCI: Water, Propanediol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Fruit Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Extract
Highlights:
SC-HELP™ DEFENSE by Vantage is an all-natural complex designed to support the health of dermal papilla cells in the scalp by directly addressing oxidative stress from ROS. Dermal papilla cells are key cells involved in the growth and regeneration of new hair. They reside in the hair follicles near the root bulb.
Derived from botanical by-products such as Mediterranean fruit extracts from orange, prickly pear and olive, SC-HELP™ DEFENSE targets key mechanisms of scalp deterioration. These include the suppression of pro-inflammatory mediators and the reinforcement of skin barrier function. Clinical and in-vitro studies demonstrate its efficacy in reducing markers of oxidative stress (such as malondialdehyde) while promoting microbiota equilibrium through prebiotic-like activity. This dual-action mechanism supports a healthier scalp environment over time. It soothes scalp inflammation, enhances hair root health, and promotes healthy hair growth, aligning with growing demand for sustainable yet scientifically substantiated scalp care solutions.
This crossover between longevity science and circular innovation marks a new era for personal care. Upcycled technology actives don't merely reduce waste, they represent a deeper evolution in how we think about skin, scalp, and hair health over time. By integrating biomimetic mechanisms with sustainable sourcing, formulators can now develop efficacious, future-ready products that promote both circular and cellular resilience.
References