Covalo x The Upcycled Beauty Company
Biotechnology, the promising next frontier for sustainability in personal care
Greener manufacturing methods, such as biotechnology, can be used to transform waste into high-value cosmetic raw materials while promoting quality, efficacy and high-performance claims.
Biotechnology helps shape the circular future of cosmetics, so let’s discover the pioneering manufacturers, collaborators and projects defining this space…
For a Blue Future
Blue biotechnology focuses on the utilisation of marine and aquatic organisms to develop renewable products and processes. The ocean is home to 100 times more active substances than the land, and microalgae play an essential role in this rich biodiversity. Blue biotechnology unlocks the potential of these single-cell powerhouses for sustainable and desirable applications in personal care.
Who are the players driving blue technology innovation?
1. MICROPHYT
MICROPHYT, a French company dedicated to "fostering a blue future," specialises in developing unique bioactives from microalgae. Moreover, they are part of the SCALE project, which is building and operating a first-of-its-kind biorefinery for producing ingredients derived from untapped microalgae diversity. This collaborative project, comprising 11 key EU and international partners (including Chanel Parfums Beauté), is based on the unique CAMARGUE photobioreactor technology developed and patented by Microphyt. Claimed to be a world first, the hydro-biomimetic microalgae production technology in a tubular photo-bioreactor is based on a patented two-phase flow process. The Microphyt biorefinery can produce over 100 tonnes of ingredients annually. This energy-efficient, zero-waste process converts biomass into a variety of products intended for cosmetics, food, nutritional supplements and feed.
MICROPHYT Ingredient Spotlight:
PhycoSi™
INCI: Water & Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract & Pentylene Glycol
A bio-inspired solution, Microphyt has developed a sustainable process for extracting bioavailable marine silicium. This 100% natural ingredient is derived from the microalgae Phaeodactylum tricornutum and is produced through an upcycling process that utilises a manufacturing by-product from a nutraceutical ingredient. PhycoSi™ bioavailable marine silicium offers a two-step action on the skin. After 14 days, it provides deep restructuring by optimizing cell exchanges in the dermis, increasing production of Aquaporin 3 by fibroblasts, and redensifying and firming the dermis. After 28 days, it promotes surface regeneration by restoring the skin barrier, gently exfoliating and regenerating the skin, and smoothing the skin's microrelief to reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Suitable for better ageing treatments and as an effective daily skincare solution for skin regeneration, PhycoSi™ aligns with consumer demand for natural and sustainable cosmetic ingredients.
2. ALGAKTIV
ALGAKTIV, located in Spain, is a cutting-edge biotech research lab that also specialises in developing innovative ingredients derived from microalgae. The company utilises blue biotechnology to create high-performance active ingredients with emphasis on sustainability and traceability. Algaktiv's leading product, ALGAKTIV® Collage, is derived from vegan collagen peptides and spermidine sourced from the extremophile microalgae Hematococcus pluvialis. This ingredient is produced through an upcycling process that transforms waste from astaxanthin production into a potent skincare active. Algaktiv's products are known for their quality and effectiveness in instant lifting and long-term collagen boosting production, skin hydration and wrinkle reduction.
ALGAKTIV Ingredient Spotlight:
ALGAKTIV® BioSKN
INCI: Water & Propanediol & Chlorella Vulgaris Extract & Lactic Acid
ALGAKTIV® BioSKN is another cosmetic ingredient from Algaktiv produced using upcycled microalgae by-products. It is derived from Chlorella vulgaris, a species of green microalga, and manufactured via a novel technology that isolates compounds from the microalgae cell wall. This ingredient acts as a holistic skin superfood, delivering cellular energy and promoting skin balance. ALGAKTIV® BioSKN outperforms epidermal growth factor (EGF) in stimulating keratinocyte growth and demonstrates broad-spectrum prebiotic properties. It supports beneficial skin microbes like S. epidermidis while reducing harmful pathogenic species associated with acne, dandruff and skin infections – even in rinse-off applications. Clinical studies have shown that ALGAKTIV® BioSKN helps promote clear skin, reduces visible redness, increases moisturisation and boosts radiance.
Into the White
White biotechnology uses living cells like bacteria, yeast and fungi, as well as enzymes, for the industrial production of materials. This branch of biotechnology can replace traditional chemical processes, promoting sustainable development and circularity by enabling the use of biomass and agricultural waste as feedstocks. It offers several advantages, including lower energy consumption, reduced waste generation and use of renewable resources combined with higher specificity and purity of products.
Who is driving white biotechnology innovation?
ROELMI HPC, headquartered in Italy, has established an approach to creating high-value cosmetic and nutraceutical ingredients through white biotechnology techniques. This advanced biofermentation capitalises on the power of specialised microorganisms to transform underutilised natural resources, such as non-edible agricultural by-products, into cutting-edge components. ROELMI HPC has embraced this sustainable methodology as a foundation of their research and development strategy. Their application of white biotechnology leverages proprietary enzyme and bacterial strains, initially implemented as end-of-pipe solutions but now evolving into widespread techniques for producing premium ingredients from renewable sources.
This forward-thinking approach led to the creation of the EquiBiotics® line, which features postbiotic ingredients derived from probiotic lactic acid bacteria strains developed by SynBalance, a ROELMI HPC subsidiary. Two key species, L. rhamnosus and L. acidophilus, serve as the foundation for these highly adaptable postbiotics. The exceptional adaptivity, resilience and versatility of these strains allow for the development of specific active components targeted to meet specific cosmetic needs.
The EquiBiotics® line includes:
- A probiotic-derived ingredient obtained from Lactobacillus acidophilus PBS066 through integral-structure preservation.
- Focuses on skin microbiota and sensitive skin care.
- Able to modulate TNF-alpha levels to enhance the skin barrier and balance skin microbiota.
- Designed for sensitive skin applications.
- A probiotic-derived ingredient obtained through the tyndallisation process of Lactobacillus rhamnosus LRH020.
- Targets skin microbiota care.
- Helps counteract damage from aggressive multifactorial agents.
- Strengthens natural skin defences.
- Prevents pathogen colonization.
- Provides metabolic support to the physiological skin microbiota.
These example case studies show the commitment many suppliers have to sustainable development combining biotechnology, upcycling and zero-waste. By harnessing the power of renewable microorganisms, microalgae and by-products these processes can help promote circular progress across the personal care industry while offering highly active, targeted and desirable cosmetic applications.
👉 Discover biotechnology ingredients on Covalo for your upcoming formulations
This article is part of our Biotech campaign. Check out our other Biotech content on our landing page!
References:
1. https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2024/07/26/5-biotech-cosmetics-ingredients-companies-to-watch
3. https://www.cbe.europa.eu/projects/scale
4. https://microphyt.eu/phycosi/
5. https://algaktiv.com/our-actives/
6. https://beautymatter.com/articles/a-sustainable-approach-to-tomorrows-cosmetics
7. https://www.roelmihpc.com/markets/personal-care/equibiotics-line/
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