Better Aging Ingredient Inspiration from a Cosmetic Chemist

There is a constant stream of innovation in Better Aging skincare, as consumers strive to age gracefully and support the visible effects of inevitably growing older. With so many new ingredients and products being launched in this category, with the anti-aging performance claim, it can be difficult to identify and find the right ingredients.

As someone who has spent 20 years in the beauty industry as a cosmetic chemist and a product designer – and who is now at an age that can seriously be considered aging – I now consider myself a double expert!

With my expertise, I thought I would share some guidance around how to identify Better Aging ingredients for your upcoming formulations, as well as the ingredients I would use, or have worked with. There are 4 core steps to understanding which ingredients to use in your Better Aging formulations:

• Research Other Brands: Look at what anti-aging brands are including in their formulations.
• Identify Trends: Research what ingredients are currently hot or trending.
• Design Process: Build a product/formulation specifically designed for aging skin.
• Customer Feedback: Listen to what your customers want for anti-aging.

Let’s dive into each of these steps.

Research Other Brands: What Are Other Anti-Aging Brands Including in Their Formulations?

It’s always good practice to keep a pulse on what other brands are doing and what they consider effective or innovative. One ingredient I’ve seen great brands use is my all-time favorite, Hyaluronic Acid. Specifically, Hymagic-4D by Bloomage Biotech not only includes the new buzzword, biotech, but also features four types of hyaluronic acid. This ingredient is a combination of four kinds of Hyaluronic Acid with different properties, which can form a three-dimensional network to target different layers of the skin. It replenishes water from outside and holds water from inside, moisturizing and hydrating the skin completely, and improving elasticity from within.

A very famous New Zealand brand has just launched a potent anti-aging product showcasing good efficacy, including Gatuline® Expression AF by Gattefossé. Expression lines (i.e., fine lines) are the result of thousands of daily involuntary micro-contractions of the facial muscles. They become more visible and deeper as we age and are a real concern for people who want to maintain a youthful appearance. Gatuline® Expression AF effectively prevents the appearance of expression lines and visibly smooths the skin surface. This fast-acting ingredient redefines both the eye and lip contours in record time.

Identify Trends & Design Process: Which Anti-Aging Ingredients Are Trending, and How to Bring Them Together?

Designing a formulation specifically for aging skin involves using multi-efficacious, award-winning anti-aging actives that cover a wide range of concerns while adhering to the "less is more" principle of sustainable and slow beauty.

In-Cosmetics Global Award-Winning Ingredient: ETERWELL™ YOUTH

ETERWELL™ YOUTH, developed by dsm-firmenich and powered by Senolytic Science, selectively removes dermo-destructive senescent cells, addressing the root causes of premature aging and promoting natural skin renewal processes. Skin looks two years younger and smoother in just two weeks. This ingredient harnesses the power of the rare Epilobium fleischeri plant, rich in flavonoids, and is sustainably and ethically sourced. ETERWELL™ YOUTH is a true senolytic active, clearing senescent cells, the root cause of aging.

Sensory Aesthetics: FiberDesign™ Citrus

For a full sensory experience in anti-aging products, FiberDesign™ Citrus, by Cargill, ticks several boxes. Nominated for the Kenvue Trusted Science Award at In-Cosmetics Global 2024, FiberDesign™ Citrus is a patented texturizer made with upcycled citrus peel fibers, achieving nearly zero waste. This ingredient provides a long-lasting, cooling effect and has a quick-breaking texture for easy spreading, leaving the skin feeling refreshed and smooth.

Future Trends: Ectoin

Ectoin is on my radar as the next go-to ingredient for anti-aging and other skin concerns. ECTOinOIL®, manufactured by bitop, offers a new and easy way of incorporating Ectoin® natural in anhydrous and sustainable formulations. This bioactive provides brands the opportunity to create water-smart products with excellent clinically proven efficacy, offering benefits like anti-aging, skin brightening, blue light protection, anti-inflammatory properties, long-term hydration, and soothing.

Stem Cell Ingredients Created by Biochemistry

Algaktiv Microalgae crafts water minerals into colorful biochemistry. They transform light, water, and minerals to create sustainable and vegan skincare actives. The original stem cells from nature are now available for the consumer that cares. Algaktiv RetinART is a standout ingredient, outperforming Bakuchiol and Retinol without side effects. With three clinical evaluations—head-to-head with Retinol, in synergy with Retinol, and head-to-head with Bakuchiol—it stands as a real Retinol alternative.

Customer Feedback: What Does Your Customer Want?

• Vitamins: Vitamin A, Vitamin B3, Vitamin C, and other essential vitamins are always in demand. The Special Chemicals 10 Vitamin Complex (Riboflavin, Panthenol, Thiamine HCL, Biotin, Pyridoxine HCL, Niacinamide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Retinyl Palmitate, Inositol) is a comprehensive solution.
• Acids and Humectants: For those preferring acids, I would suggest upcycled options like OLIVAN CICAPURE® active 2-in-1 by Atanor 118, featuring Maslinic Acid and Oleanolic Acid for skin homeostasis, anti-inflammatory action, and enhanced elastin and collagen synthesis.
• Collagen Boosters: Col-4-Frag remastered™ by LipoTrue offers a comprehensive solution for tightening and weaving the collagen IV net, particularly beneficial for the neckline and décolleté, promoting smooth and flawless skin with reduced wrinkles and dark spots.

Using any or all of these ingredients is sure to formulate a future-forward, on-trend, customer-happy, and consumer-demand product.

Conclusion

The pursuit of better aging ingredients is multifaceted. By researching what other brands are doing, identifying current trends, designing products specifically for aging skin, and listening to customer feedback, formulators can stay ahead in the competitive beauty industry. Incorporating innovative ingredients like Hymagic-4D, Gatuline® Expression AF, ETERWELL™ YOUTH, FiberDesign™ Citrus, ECTOinOIL®, Algaktiv RetinART, and others will ensure products meet consumer demands and deliver impressive results. The future of anti-aging skincare looks bright with these cutting-edge formulations.

👉To help with your ingredient search and discovery process, leverage Covalo, the World’s Largest Ingredients Platform, to research ingredients, compare them, and make inquiries to suppliers for free.

Learn more about the author:
Stacey Fraser
Dip Form Chem IPCS, Consultant, Product Designer